{"id":23817,"date":"2024-03-13T17:55:04","date_gmt":"2024-03-13T17:55:04","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.experiencetravelgroup.com\/blog\/?p=23817"},"modified":"2024-11-07T14:14:50","modified_gmt":"2024-11-07T14:14:50","slug":"tackling-over-tourism-in-sri-lankas-yala-national-park","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/archive.experiencetravelgroup.com\/blog\/tackling-over-tourism-in-sri-lankas-yala-national-park\/","title":{"rendered":"Tackling Over-Tourism In Sri Lanka\u2019s Yala National Park"},"content":{"rendered":"

[vc_row full_width=”stretch_row_content_no_spaces” equal_height=”yes” content_placement=”middle” css=”.vc_custom_1710352929728{padding-top: 60% !important;background-image: url(https:\/\/www.experiencetravelgroup.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/03\/yala-national-park.jpg?id=23844) !important;background-position: center !important;background-repeat: no-repeat !important;background-size: cover !important;}”][vc_column][\/vc_column][\/vc_row][vc_row][vc_column width=”1\/6″][\/vc_column][vc_column width=”2\/3″][vc_empty_space height=”20px”][vc_column_text]Sri Lanka\u2019s most visited national park, Yala is famous for its leopards. But increasingly, overcrowding in the park\u2019s main block is ruining life for wildlife and visitors alike.<\/em>[\/vc_column_text][vc_empty_space height=”20px”][vc_column_text]There was a time when Yala was on every wildlife enthusiast\u2019s bucket list. Famous for having one of, if not the highest density of leopards in the world, Sri Lanka<\/a>\u2019s oldest and second largest park was the country\u2019s \u2018wildlife must see\u2019. But today? Honestly, I\u2019m not so sure. I first visited Yala in 2000. Back then, Yala offered an incredible wild escape. You might see the occasional jeep, maybe a few more at weekends, but that was it.[\/vc_column_text][vc_empty_space height=”20px”][vc_single_image image=”23825″ img_size=”full”][vc_column_text]Since then, I\u2019ve visited half a dozen times, and the changes I\u2019ve witnessed \u2014 particularly over the past decade \u2014 are shocking. A victim of its own success, Yala\u2019s popularity has seen visitor numbers to Block One (the park\u2019s main block where the leopard population is exceptionally high) soar to absurd, clearly unsustainable levels. Aside from being horribly congested, this end of the park has become increasingly lawless: dangerous driving and the harassment and crowding of wildlife are now significant problems. Meanwhile, leading conservationists warn of changed animal behaviour, and a declining habitat and wildlife population.[\/vc_column_text][vc_empty_space height=”20px”][vc_single_image image=”23827″ img_size=”full”][vc_column_text]In an attempt to tame the more unruly jeep operators, from January 2024, all drivers entering Yala must have completed a day\u2019s training and be licensed with the Department of Wildlife Conservation (DWC) OR be accompanied by a DWC tracker (guide). But while this new legislation may improve general standards, it won\u2019t tackle the underlying issue: over-tourism.<\/p>\n

Don\u2019t get me wrong: Yala\u2019s much quieter Blocks Five and Six, together with the northern end of Block One, can still deliver an unforgettable, authentic safari that\u2019s right up there with the best that Sri Lanka can offer. But you must plan your Yala visit carefully<\/a>, travel with a reputable safari outfit, and avoid the hotspots. Because if you don\u2019t, Block One can feel like the M25 motorway meets London Zoo.[\/vc_column_text][vc_empty_space height=”20px”][vc_single_image image=”23829″ img_size=”full”][vc_column_text]<\/p>\n

So, how do you solve a problem like Yala?<\/h2>\n

To get the inside track, I visited Block One with naturalist Indika (Indy) Nettigama last October. Co-owner of Ceylon Wild Safaris, one of Sri Lanka\u2019s premier sustainable safari camps, Indy knows the park and its issues intimately. Renowned as the park\u2019s prime zone for both leopards and overcrowding, the last time I\u2019d visited Block One, I\u2019d had to queue for ages to get in its main Palatapuna gate in the south. But on this morning, despite arriving at 6am \u2014 Yala\u2019s \u2018rush hour\u2019 \u2014 we sailed straight through.[\/vc_column_text][vc_empty_space height=”20px”][vc_column_text]What struck me instantly was how quiet this northern side of the block was. Gone were the crazy queues and constant sightings of other jeeps (although we did have to pull up to let elephants pass). Only when we saw a leopard did things take a downward turn, but more of that later. Instead, we spent the early morning exploring in peace, watching wild boar and spotted deer graze, land monitors stomp, and an incredible array of birdlife (think grey hornbill, peacock, scarlet minivet, yellow-crowned woodpecker, oriole, serpent eagle, crested hawk, and honey buzzard) do its thing. For a finale, a cloud of stunning butterflies enveloped our jeep like confetti. And all in just a couple of hours.[\/vc_column_text][vc_empty_space height=”20px”][vc_single_image image=”23830″ img_size=”full”][vc_column_text]Ceylon Wild is an easy 25-minute drive from Katagamuwa. By 9am, we were back at camp, tucking into a breakfast of egg hoppers, curry, and fruit salad. Between mouthfuls, I asked Indy how we\u2019d managed largely to avoid Yala\u2019s infamous chaos.<\/p>\n

\u201cWe still went to Block One, but to the northern side through the Katagamuwa gate. That area is much quieter because it’s far from the main Palatapuna entrance.\u201d<\/p>\n

\u201cSo, what\u2019s the problem with the Palatapuna gate?\u201d<\/p>\n

\u201cThere are too many vehicles, because all the hoteliers are from that southern side. The main hotels have huge room numbers, so that area get really crowded. On a normal day, you’ll see 200-300 jeeps entering from Palatapuna, but only maybe 20 jeeps from the Katagamuwa side,\u201d Indy explained.<\/p>\n

\u201cAnd how high can numbers get in peak season?\u201d<\/p>\n

\u201cNow, it\u2019s capped at six hundred vehicles, but previously, you got more. On one day more than 1,000 vehicles entered the park. It\u2019s ridiculous,\u201d exasperated, Indy rolled his eyes.[\/vc_column_text][vc_empty_space height=”20px”][vc_single_image image=”23834″ img_size=”full”][vc_column_text]<\/p>\n

Yala needs to cut vehicle numbers further<\/h2>\n

Attempts to reduce vehicle numbers further have failed due to intense lobbying by Yala\u2019s 700 or so jeep drivers. But 600 jeeps in one day still seemed way too many\u2026 and my idea of hell. So, I asked Indy what he thought the limit should be for wildlife and visitors to truly benefit.<\/p>\n

\u201cAround 100-200 jeeps, max \u2014 but ideally, 40-50.\u201d<\/p>\n

Struck by the vast difference between reality and Indy\u2019s dream scenario, I queried whether closing the park one day a week might give the animals some respite. But Indy was adamant this would do more harm than good:<\/p>\n

\u201cBringing safari vehicles into the park makes it safer for wildlife \u2014 because as soon as Yala closes you get lots of issues with poachers.\u201d<\/p>\n

\u201cEven for one day a week?\u201d I asked.<\/p>\n

\u201cMaybe if you did it randomly. But the poachers would still find out quickly because many locals work inside Yala,\u201d Indy explained.<\/p>\n

\u201cSo, what would your message be to the relevant government departments?\u201d<\/p>\n

\u201cI have a few suggestions. Firstly, send a tracker from the Department of Wildlife Conservation (DWC) out with every vehicle. That way, you can create new job opportunities AND charge visitors more because the experience will be much better. So, you can cut vehicle numbers but still bring in the same revenue \u2014 maybe more \u2014 but the impact on the park will be less.\u201d<\/p>\n

\u201cWould that help reduce the impact on every level, including, say, the pollution?\u201d I ventured.<\/p>\n

\u201cYeah. It would help with lots of things, even the roads. We have to use Michelin tyres in the rainy season, and the roads get wasted. Cut vehicle numbers, and the roads will need less maintenance, which will save money.<\/p>\n

\u201cNext, the park needs to bring in new technology, like GPS tagging for wildlife and communication radios, so drivers know where the animals and crowds are and don\u2019t feel pressurised to rush to sightings,\u201d Indy continued. \u201cThen get an advanced booking system with an information guide, so visitors can add their requirements of what they do and don\u2019t want to see before they\u2019ve even arrived. That way, you wouldn\u2019t have to drive around so much; you could just head to the wildlife and places guests actually want to see. That would control vehicle numbers, speeding, traffic, the crowds at sightings\u2026\u201d[\/vc_column_text][vc_empty_space height=”20px”][vc_single_image image=”23837″ img_size=”full” add_caption=”yes”][vc_column_text]<\/p>\n

Yala\u2019s tourists must play their part, too<\/h2>\n

Yala\u2019s leopards attract the biggest audiences, but any big game is fair game. The jeep drivers share intel by cell phone, so convoys quickly descend on any \u2018newsworthy\u2019 creature spotted. With speed limits and safe viewing distances abandoned, accidents involving wildlife and\/or other vehicles are not uncommon. Visitors undoubtedly have a part to play in calling out unacceptable behaviour and reporting it to the park authorities. Yet in their quest for prime sightings, some even offer drivers and trackers big tips\/bribes to break the safety rules.<\/p>\n

Even in the block\u2019s quieter northern end, we\u2019d chanced across a leopard surrounded by a swarm of jeeps from Palatapuna. Had we spotted the cat earlier, we\u2019d have had an hour or so\u2019s quiet viewing time before the hordes arrived. Instead, with the air thick with the smell and sound of diesel engines, we\u2019d quickly moved on.<\/p>\n

\u201cI don\u2019t think anywhere else in the world compares with Yala in terms of the density of leopards,\u201d Indy told me. \u201cCeylon Wild is part of a small leopard project; in the past ten years, we\u2019ve identified 148 individual leopards. At any given time, I\u2019d say there are about 80 to 100 leopards in an area of 14,500 hectares [56 miles\u00b2]; it’s amazing! And because they are Sri Lanka\u2019s apex predator, they\u2019re relaxed and habituated to visitors. But they still don\u2019t like crowds.\u201d[\/vc_column_text][vc_empty_space height=”20px”][vc_single_image image=”23838″ img_size=”full”][vc_column_text]\u201cDo you think a lot of visitors don\u2019t want to be part of those crowds?\u201d I asked.<\/p>\n

\u201cFor sure. Lots of my guests aren\u2019t that interested in leopards. They\u2019d rather see, say, elephants or the incredible birds. But some other drivers assume their guests want to see leopard \u2014 maybe they don\u2019t speak the guest\u2019s language \u2014 and so they queue for ages to see one, when that isn\u2019t what the guest wants.\u201d<\/p>\n

Yala became a national park in 1938 but has been a designated wildlife sanctuary since 1900. Sri Lanka\u2019s history of nature conservation dates back thousands of years (it\u2019s believed the country\u2019s first wildlife reserve was created around the 3rd century AD). Today, more than 10% of the island is taken up by its 26 national parks\u2026 so it\u2019s all the more infuriating that Yala\u2019s problems persist.[\/vc_column_text][vc_empty_space height=”20px”][vc_single_image image=”23839″ img_size=”full”][vc_column_text]Like Indy, many Sri Lankans working within eco-tourism, conservation, and the national parks, agree that Yala\u2019s Block One is a disaster in the making<\/a>. These experts have the know-how and desire to put matters right. What\u2019s missing is the political support. Countless people rely on Yala for their livelihoods. Many, like the hoteliers and jeep owner\/drivers, are heavily invested in the park\u2019s crowd-pulling power. Balancing Yala\u2019s economic and environmental needs will be challenging, but the park needs brave, forward-thinking politicians to help ensure its long-term survival.[\/vc_column_text][vc_column_text]Increasingly, foreign travellers wishing to travel responsibly are giving Yala<\/a> the thumbs down. Deeply uncomfortable with what they\u2019ve witnessed (or seen on social media), they\u2019re choosing to visit unspoilt National Parks, such as Willpattu<\/a> or Gal Oya<\/a>. Without political intervention, there will come a point when wildlife and conscientious visitors say, \u201cEnough is enough\u201d and vote with their feet. And then who will be left to pay the bills?[\/vc_column_text][vc_empty_space height=”20px”][vc_single_image image=”23841″ img_size=”full”][vc_column_text]<\/p>\n

Ceylon Wild Safaris<\/a><\/h2>\n

Owned, run, and operated by passionate naturalists, this is a great choice for safari enthusiasts. Hidden in the buffer-zone jungle of Yala\u2019s western edge, the camp is rustic enough to feel suitably \u2018safari\u2019, but the six spacious, swanky tents will keep even picky souls happy. Each tent has its own plunge pool, perfect for relaxing in after an early morning safari. Indy and his colleagues are stellar guides and completely devoted to sustainable tourism (ask them about their ongoing conservation projects). Plus, the brilliant location makes exploring the north of Block One and Yala\u2019s much quieter Blocks Five and Six easy.<\/p>\n

Experience this during a bespoke Sri Lanka holiday.<\/a><\/strong>[\/vc_column_text][vc_column_text]<\/p>\n

In the words of our travellers…<\/h2>\n

We travelled to Sri Lanka with ETG in April-May 2022, and had 2 nights and 4 safaris at Yala, staying with Kulu Safaris<\/a>, near the northern Gate to Block 1. For our first afternoon, we went to Blocks 5\/6, where there was only one other vehicle. Late afternoon, the other driver called ours to advise that he had found a leopard. We were able to sit watching it for about 30 minutes, sitting in a tree, or pacing and scratching, before it walked off into the jungle. In comparison, the following morning, we were in Block 1. Another leopard was found, and we were one of 10 or more vehicles manoeuvring to see it. In the end, we both pretended to see it, just to please the guide. We were both happy, as we\u2019d had such good views the day before. Our guide knew that I was interested in birds, and in the course of the visit, we saw about 80 different species. He did also find us a distant sloth bear. Apart from the wildlife, one of my best memories is when we were driven down to the coast on the last morning. We were able to look at the ocean, and appreciate where land met sea. Many thanks for one of many great Experiences.<\/p><\/blockquote>\n

David & Cathy Walker[\/vc_column_text][vc_column_text]Wildlife images courtesy of Ceylon Wild Safaris<\/em>[\/vc_column_text][vc_empty_space height=”15px”][vc_column_text]<\/p>\n

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READY TO PLAN YOUR NEXT TRIP?<\/h2>\n

Please get in touch on 020 7924 7133<\/span>\r\n \t.<\/p>\n

Alternatively, fill out an online enquiry form to start your journey<\/a>.<\/p>\n

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